Balm ingredients

Apricot kernel and peach kernel oil: near twins, told apart properly

Apricot kernel oil runs 58 to 66 percent oleic with an iodine value of 100 to 110. How peach kernel differs, use at 10 to 50 percent, and the almond swap.

Apricot kernel oil and peach kernel oil come from two species in the same genus, press to almost the same fatty acid profile, and are routinely substituted for one another in the trade. Both are also used to stretch sweet almond oil, which they resemble closely enough that a fatty acid table alone will not separate them. This page sets out the numbers that do differ, the ones that do not, and what any of it changes in a balm.

Short answer

Apricot kernel oil runs about 58 to 66 percent oleic and 25 to 33 percent linoleic, with an iodine value of 100 to 110. Peach kernel is wider, roughly 55 to 75 percent oleic, iodine value 90 to 110. Both keep about 12 months, both swap one for one with sweet almond oil, and both work at 10 to 50 percent of a balm.

  • INCI: Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
  • Oleic 58-66%
  • Iodine value 100-110
  • Shelf life about 12 months
  • Treat as a nut allergen

Two kernels, one genus

Both oils are pressed from the seed inside the stone of a stone fruit. Apricot kernel oil is Prunus armeniaca, INCI Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil. Peach kernel oil is Prunus persica, INCI Prunus Persica (Peach) Kernel Oil. Sweet almond, Prunus dulcis, is a third member of the same genus, which is why all three behave alike and why the almond comparison runs through this whole page. If the naming convention is unfamiliar, INCI names explained covers why the botanical name and the common name both appear.

Neither oil is grown for its own sake. Apricot kernels are a byproduct of drying, canning and juicing; peach kernels come out of canning and pulping. That shapes the supply. Apricot kernel oil is widely available and moderately priced because apricot processing is large and concentrated, mainly around Turkey and Central Asia. Peach kernel oil is a smaller stream, harder to buy in quantity, and usually costs more per kilogram for a material that performs the same. Sourcing questions of this kind, including what to ask for on a specification, are set out in sourcing ingredients.

Kernels come in bitter and sweet types. Bitter apricot kernels carry much more amygdalin, which is the source of the cyanide question dealt with further down, and also the source of the marzipan smell in an unrefined pressing. Which kernel type a mill uses is a genuine difference between suppliers and one of the few things worth asking about.

The fatty acid profiles, side by side

These are the ranges that appear on trade specifications and in the pharmacopoeial and analytical literature. They are ranges because harvest, cultivar and origin move them, not because anyone is being vague.

Fatty acid composition as percentage of total fatty acids, from typical supplier specifications and pharmacopoeial composition limits. Sweet almond is included because it is the oil these two are most often compared with, and most often used to adulterate.
Fatty acidApricot kernelPeach kernelSweet almond
Palmitic, C16:04-7%5-8%6-8%
Palmitoleic, C16:10.5-1.5%0.5-1.5%under 1%
Stearic, C18:00.5-2%1-2%1-2%
Oleic, C18:158-66%55-75%62-78%
Linoleic, C18:225-33%15-35%20-30%
Alpha-linolenic, C18:3under 1%under 1%under 0.5%

Read the table for what it does not say. Apricot sits in a narrow band, which is the practical argument for it: batch to batch, you know what you are getting. Peach is quoted over a wider window, partly because less analytical work has been done on it and partly because the raw material is more mixed. The two windows overlap almost completely, so a certificate of analysis showing 62 percent oleic and 28 percent linoleic is consistent with either oil, and with a good many almond samples too.

What the profile means for the skin is straightforward. These are moderately high oleic oils, in the same family as the materials covered in high oleic oils, but with a linoleic fraction big enough to matter. Oleic acid dominates the feel; linoleic contributes the part of the profile that oxidises. Neither oil is a source of any unusual minor lipid: the unsaponifiable fraction is around 0.5 to 1.5 percent, mostly sterols with beta-sitosterol dominant.

Iodine value, keeping and what 12 months means

Iodine value measures how many double bonds are present, which is the first approximation to how quickly an oil goes off. Apricot kernel oil is commonly specified at 100 to 110, peach kernel at 90 to 110. That puts both in the middle of the carrier oil range, better than sunflower or hemp, worse than jojoba or high oleic safflower.

Physical and analytical constants from trade specifications and pharmacopoeial monographs. Tocopherol figures vary widely with origin and refining and are given as reported bands, not specifications.
ValueApricot kernelPeach kernelNote
Iodine value100-11090-110Wijs method. Higher means faster oxidation.
Saponification value185-198185-197Effectively identical. No use as an identity test.
Unsaponifiable matterup to 1.5%up to 1.5%Sterols, mostly beta-sitosterol.
Relative density, 20 C0.910-0.9200.910-0.920Use 0.92 g/mL for volume to weight conversions.
Refractive index, 20 C1.468-1.4721.468-1.472Overlapping. Will not tell the two apart.
Peroxide value on deliverymax 5-10max 5-10Milliequivalents of oxygen per kg. Ask for it.
Total tocopherols300-700 mg/kg300-700 mg/kgGamma-tocopherol dominant, unlike almond.
Typical stated shelf life12 months12 monthsUnopened, cool, dark. Not a measurement.

The 12 month figure deserves a caveat. It is a supplier convention for an unopened container held cool and dark, not the result of a study on your oil, and it is not the shelf life of your balm. A balm made with an oil that is already six months old inherits that history. What actually governs the outcome is peroxide value at the point of use, storage temperature and headspace, all of which are worked through in rancidity and oxidation, with the dating logic in shelf life testing and an estimate you can run in the shelf life calculator.

Because the linoleic fraction is meaningful, both oils benefit from an antioxidant. Rosemary extract at the levels discussed in rosemary extract protects the oil itself; tocopherol additions are a weaker tool than most makers expect, for the reasons in vitamin E and antioxidants. Neither is a substitute for buying fresh oil and using it inside a year.

Note

Ask for the pressing date, not just the best before date. A supplier who cannot tell you when the oil was pressed is selling you an unknown fraction of its useful life, and this is the single most common cause of a balm that turns before its stated date.

Skin feel, and the viscosity behind it

Both oils are described as light and fast absorbing, and both are lighter than sweet almond in side by side use. It is worth being precise about how small that difference is. Dynamic viscosity for refined seed oils of this type sits in a band of roughly 40 to 70 mPa s at 25 C, with the stone fruit kernel oils towards the lower half and sweet almond towards the upper half. Between apricot and almond you are looking at a difference on the order of ten percent, which is close to the limit of what a fingertip can rank blind and well within the spread introduced by refining, temperature and measurement method. Anyone quoting these oils to a single decimal place has copied a number rather than measured one.

Viscosity also falls steeply with temperature. All of these oils lose roughly half their viscosity between 25 and 40 C, so the difference between apricot and almond on a warm hand is smaller still. What people are really perceiving when they call apricot kernel oil lighter is the combination of slightly lower viscosity, a slightly higher linoleic fraction, and a thin residual film. The mechanism, and why "absorbs quickly" is mostly a statement about film thickness and spreading rather than about anything crossing the barrier, is covered in lipid penetration into skin.

On comedogenicity, apricot kernel oil is commonly listed at 2 on the old five point scale. Those ratings came from rabbit ear assays on neat materials and transfer poorly to a finished balm at 30 percent inclusion, as comedogenic ratings explains. Treat the number as a weak prior, not a verdict, and read will a balm break me out before you build a claim on it.

Cold pressed against refined, and the marzipan note

Cold pressed kernel oil is pale gold, carries a distinct almond or marzipan smell, and retains more of the minor components including tocopherols and sterols. Refined oil is close to colourless, effectively odourless, and more consistent from drum to drum. The aroma comes largely from benzaldehyde, released from amygdalin when the kernel is crushed in the presence of moisture and the enzymes that break the glycoside down. Bitter kernels give a stronger note than sweet ones.

That aroma is a formulation decision, not a quality marker. In a massage balm or a hand salve the marzipan note reads as pleasant and natural. In a fragranced product it fights the top notes, and in an unscented product it is the thing customers describe when they say the balm smells of something. If you are building a scent, use refined oil and put the character where you chose to put it. If your balm smells almondy and you did not intend it, the oil is usually the culprit before the essential oils are.

Refining also removes free fatty acids and colour bodies, which is why refined oil typically specifies a free fatty acid content of 0.1 to 0.2 percent against up to a percent or two for a cold pressed grade. Higher free fatty acid content is not itself dangerous but it correlates with a shorter useful life. The trade-off is the same one described for the pantry equivalents in kitchen oils in balms.

Amygdalin and cyanide, in proportion

Apricot kernels contain amygdalin, a cyanogenic glycoside. Crushed and eaten, kernels release hydrogen cyanide, and the risk is real enough that EFSA assessed it and set an acute reference dose for cyanide exposure from raw apricot kernels. People have been poisoned by eating bitter kernels as a supposed remedy.

None of that carries across to the oil, for a reason worth understanding rather than taking on trust. Amygdalin is a sugar-linked, strongly water soluble molecule. It does not partition into a pressed lipid phase in any meaningful quantity, it stays in the press cake, and refining removes what little travels. Cosmetic and food grade apricot kernel oils are routinely tested and report cyanide at trace or undetectable levels. The exposure route that matters is eating kernels, not applying an oil to skin.

Careful

The oil is not a concern. Whole or ground apricot kernels are a different material entirely. Do not use kernel meal or crushed kernels as a scrub particle in a lip product or anything that can be swallowed, and never repeat the claim that bitter apricot kernels treat anything. That is a medicinal claim about a genuinely toxic material.

Nut allergy, stone fruit and what you can claim

This is where a lot of published guidance is wrong in both directions, so take it in two parts.

The legal part. Food allergen law in the UK and EU works from a closed list, Annex II of Regulation (EU) No 1169/2011, and that list names almonds among the tree nuts. It does not name apricot or peach kernel. Cosmetics are governed by a different regime, Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, which has no food-style allergen declaration at all beyond the fragrance allergens, so what appears on your balm is the INCI list and nothing else. Strictly, then, a stone fruit kernel oil is not a declared nut allergen in cosmetics anywhere.

The practical part. The customer asking whether your balm is nut free is not asking a question about Annex II. Almond, apricot and peach are all Prunus species and share related seed proteins, and clinical cross-reactivity between them is documented, with the peach lipid transfer protein the best characterised of the group. Protein content in a refined oil is very low, and cold pressed oil carries more, which is exactly the pattern described in nut oil allergy. The defensible position is simple: do not use apricot or peach kernel oil in anything you sell as nut free, and if a customer asks, tell them it is a stone fruit kernel oil from the same genus as almond. If you need a genuinely nut free build, nut-free balm starts from sunflower and other seed oils instead.

Use levels and the one for one almond swap

Neither oil contributes structure. They are liquid at any temperature you will store a balm at, so they sit in the oil fraction and everything about hardness is decided by your wax and butter. Percentages below are weight percent of the finished formula.

Working inclusion levels for apricot or peach kernel oil by product type, as weight percent of the whole formula. Ranges are what the site's tested formula windows support, not supplier maxima.
ProductTypical levelWhy
Lip balm20-40%Good glide, no waxy drag. Refined grade if flavoured.
Face balm25-50%Light finish is the point. Often the whole liquid fraction.
Body balm and lotion bar15-35%Cut with a heavier oil so it does not vanish too fast.
Massage balm30-50%Slip without the weight of olive or avocado.
Cleansing balm10-30%Part of the oil load. The solubiliser does the real work.
Herbal infusion baseanyPale, low odour, but a 12 month oil limits the finished date.

The swap with sweet almond is as close to drop-in as substitutions get: replace gram for gram, change nothing else. Densities match, viscosities are within measurement noise of each other, and neither contributes structure, so the hardness of the finished balm does not move. Expect a marginally lighter finish, a slightly less sweet smell if you use refined oil, and no change worth measuring in shelf life. The reverse swap works equally well. Compare the full set of alternatives in carrier oils compared, or read the numbers straight from the oil comparison table.

Worked example, a 60 g face balm. Beeswax 12 percent (7.2 g), shea butter 20 percent (12.0 g), apricot kernel oil 48 percent (28.8 g), jojoba 18 percent (10.8 g), vitamin E 0.5 percent (0.3 g), rosemary extract 0.05 percent (0.03 g), with the balance in the oil to make 100. Swapping the apricot for sweet almond changes the weights not at all. Swapping it for jojoba would change the keeping properties substantially and the feel slightly, which is the sort of trade the oil blend calculator is built to show you before you weigh anything. The full method is in face balm, and a higher-oil version of the same logic is in cleansing balm.

Telling them apart, and who adulterates what

Apricot kernel oil is one of the classic adulterants of sweet almond oil, and has been for as long as almond oil has commanded a premium. The economics are obvious: nearly identical profile, lower price, no visible difference. Pharmacopoeial monographs for almond oil address this by setting composition limits that a substantial apricot addition would breach, but the margins are narrow and a modest cut can pass a fatty acid screen.

Separating apricot from peach is harder still, and the honest answer is that a fatty acid certificate cannot do it. The profiles overlap almost entirely, saponification values are the same and refractive indices are the same. Laboratories that do this work use sterol composition and minor triglyceride species, and increasingly DNA methods on the seed material rather than the oil. For a small maker there is no bench test at all. What you have is the supplier's documentation and the plausibility of the price.

Try this

If your specification says apricot kernel oil, ask for a certificate of analysis with the fatty acid profile and the peroxide value, and check that the oleic figure falls inside 58 to 66. A result at 70 percent oleic is not proof of anything, but it is a reason to ask which species and which pressing it came from before you buy a drum.

On cost, both sit in the middle band, above sunflower and rapeseed, below argan, macadamia and the specialist seed oils. Apricot is usually a little below sweet almond, which is precisely why the substitution runs in that direction, and peach kernel is usually above both on scarcity rather than merit. If you are choosing between them on price alone, apricot wins on availability and consistency, and there is no performance argument for paying more for peach.

Where they are the wrong oil

These are competent, unremarkable oils, and their weaknesses follow from that. They contribute nothing structural, so a balm built on them alone will not hold shape. They carry no distinctive minor lipid: if you want the specific fatty acid profile of a repair-oriented face oil you want rosehip or evening primrose, not a stone fruit kernel. If your goal is a long dated product that survives a hot shipping route, an iodine value of 100 to 110 is the wrong end of the scale and macadamia or a wax ester is a better base. If you want a genuinely dry finish, these oils are lighter than almond but they are not dry, and squalane or a light ester is a different category of feel.

They are also not the answer to a nut allergy question, whatever the botany says, and they are not a fragrance-free base unless you buy the refined grade. What they are is the safe default for the liquid fraction of most balms: pale, cheap enough, consistent, pleasant on skin, and free of the strong colour and smell that make some cheaper oils awkward. If you keep one bottle of a light liquid oil on the shelf and you are not building around a nut free claim, apricot kernel is a better default than sweet almond on price and consistency, and identical on everything a customer will notice. Buy it refined if you fragrance your products, cold pressed if you do not, and use it within a year of pressing.

Frequently asked questions

Is apricot kernel oil the same as peach kernel oil?

Not the same species, but close enough that a fatty acid analysis cannot reliably separate them. Apricot is Prunus armeniaca, peach is Prunus persica. Apricot runs 58 to 66 percent oleic in a narrow band, peach is quoted more widely at 55 to 75 percent. In a balm they are interchangeable, and apricot is usually cheaper and easier to buy.

Can I swap apricot kernel oil for sweet almond oil?

Yes, gram for gram, with no other change. Densities match, viscosities differ by around ten percent at most, and neither oil contributes structure, so hardness stays the same. Expect a slightly lighter finish and, if you use refined oil, less of the sweet almond smell. Shelf life is effectively unchanged at about 12 months.

Does apricot kernel oil contain cyanide?

The kernels contain amygdalin, a cyanogenic glycoside, but the oil does not carry it in any meaningful amount. Amygdalin is water soluble, stays in the press cake and is removed by refining, and commercial oils test at trace or undetectable levels. The genuine risk is from eating raw bitter kernels, which regulators have assessed and warned about.

Is apricot kernel oil a nut allergen?

Legally, no. The closed EU and UK food allergen list names almonds but not apricot or peach kernel, and cosmetics have no equivalent declaration. Practically, treat it as one. Almond, apricot and peach are all Prunus species with related seed proteins and documented cross-reactivity, so do not use these oils in a product sold as nut free.

How much apricot kernel oil should I use in a balm?

Between 10 and 50 percent of the finished formula depending on the product: 20 to 40 percent in a lip balm, 25 to 50 percent in a face balm, 15 to 35 percent in a body balm. It can be the entire liquid oil fraction. It adds no hardness, so the wax and butter percentages decide the texture.

Why does my balm smell of marzipan?

Benzaldehyde in a cold pressed stone fruit kernel oil. It is released from amygdalin when the kernel is crushed, and bitter kernels give a stronger note than sweet ones. It is harmless and often pleasant, but it will fight a designed fragrance. Buy a refined grade if you need a neutral base.

How long does apricot kernel oil keep?

Suppliers usually state 12 months unopened, cool and dark, which follows from an iodine value of 100 to 110. That is a convention rather than a measurement on your bottle. Ask for the pressing date, store it cool with minimal headspace, and remember that a balm inherits whatever life the oil had left when you used it.

Sources and further reading

  1. European Directorate for the Quality of Medicines, European Pharmacopoeia monographs: Apricot kernel oil, refined; Almond oil, virgin; Almond oil, refined, Strasbourg.
  2. European Food Safety Authority, CONTAM Panel, Acute health risks related to the presence of cyanogenic glycosides in raw apricot kernels and products derived from raw apricot kernels, EFSA Journal, Parma.
  3. Cosmetic Ingredient Review, Safety assessment of Prunus species derived ingredients as used in cosmetics, Washington DC.
  4. European Commission, CosIng cosmetic ingredient database, entries for Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil and Prunus Persica Kernel Oil.
  5. European Parliament and Council, Regulation (EU) No 1169/2011 on the provision of food information to consumers, Annex II, EUR-Lex.
  6. European Parliament and Council, Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, EUR-Lex.

Reviewed and updated 6 September 2026. Spotted an error? Tell us and we will fix and log it.