Balm and salve formulas

A market stall range built from a single master base and four modifications

A five product balm range from one master base, with a modification table, a 200 unit weekend plan, container mix and pour temperatures for every line.

A stall needs enough variety that people stop, and few enough products that you can make them all in one evening. This page gives one master base and four modifications that turn it into five sellable lines, with the grams to add per kilogram, the pour temperature for each, a 200 unit weekend plan, and an honest account of what the trick does not save you: the regulator counts formulas, not bases.

Short answer

Make one master base of 10% beeswax, 22% shea, 8% castor, 59.9% high oleic sunflower and 0.1% tocopherol. Per kilogram of base, add 59 g of beeswax for lip tubes, 286 g of beeswax for body bars, 87 g of rosin for a hand salve, or 667 g of an oil and butter cut for a 6% wax face pot. Pour 62 to 80 C by line.

  • Base: 1 kg
  • Lines: 5
  • Pour: 62 to 80 C
  • 200 units in one melt session
  • Five safety assessments

Why one base and not five recipes

Five unrelated formulas means five sets of raw materials in stock, five melts, five sets of pour behaviour to learn, and five things that can drift between batches. A single base means one melt at one temperature, one bulk purchase of each oil, and a texture you already know because you have made it fifty times.

The base is set at 10% beeswax deliberately. That is soft for a lip tube and firm for a face pot, which is exactly where you want a starting point, because adding wax is easy and removing it is not. Every modification below either adds a solid to a measured weight of base, or dilutes the base with a liquid and butter cut. Nothing is ever subtracted, because you cannot take beeswax back out of a melt.

What this buys you is inventory and time. What it does not buy you is paperwork, and that is dealt with near the end of the page rather than hidden.

The master base

Weight percent of the total batch, totalling exactly 100. Make it in whatever multiple of a kilogram your largest pot takes comfortably.

Master base. Weight percent totalling 100, with grams for a 1 kg batch and for the 3.6 kg batch used in the weekend plan below.
Ingredient%1 kg (g)3.6 kg (g)Role in the base
Beeswax, cosmetic grade10100360Deliberately low. Every line except the face pot adds to it.
Shea butter, refined22220792Cushion and body across all five lines
Castor oil880288Gloss and cling, and the pigment carrier in the tinted line
High oleic sunflower oil59.95992156Bulk emollient with good oxidative stability
Mixed tocopherols0.11.03.6Antioxidant, stirred in below 60 C
Total10010003600

Nothing here is exotic and nothing is expensive, which matters when a slow line ages out and you have to write it off. The material choices, and what each of them costs per gram at hobby, trade and 25 kg quantities, are worked through in the low cost balm formula. Melt the base at 75 to 80 C and hold it 20 to 25 minutes so no shea crystal nuclei survive, then split it hot.

The four modifications

Each modification is a weight added to a measured weight of base. The addition figures come straight from the arithmetic of a percentage: to raise a component from 10% to 15%, add x grams to 1000 g of base such that (100 + x) divided by (1000 + x) equals 0.15, which gives x = 59.

Grams added per 1000 g of master base, and what each addition produces. Yields assume 10% overage, a 0.92 g/mL working density for set balm, and the fill weights in the container table below.
ModificationAdd per 1 kg baseLine it makesYield per 1 kg base
1. Beeswax to 15%59 g beeswaxLip tube, and the substrate for the tinted line211 tubes
1b. Beeswax to 30%286 g beeswaxBody bar in a 55 g mould21 bars
2. Pigment dispersion15 g iron oxides in 30 g castor, per 1 kg of the 15% tube blendTinted lip tube209 tubes
3. Rosin to 8%87 g gum rosinHand salve in a 30 mL tin35 tins
4. Cut to 6% wax213 g shea, 37 g castor, 416 g high oleic sunflower, 0.7 g tocopherolFace balm in a 60 mL jar27 jars

Modification 1 at two strengths is one operation, not two: you are adding beeswax, and the only difference is how much. That is why five products come out of four modifications. A 30% wax bar dents at about 30 C, so if you sell outdoors in a British summer take it to 33% by adding 343 g per kilogram instead of 286 g, and keep the display bars in a cool box. Bar structure and mould handling are covered at lotion bar.

The five lines in full percentages

Modifications are how you make the products. Percentages are what goes on the ingredient list and into the safety assessment, so both have to exist. Every column below totals 100.0 after rounding to one decimal place.

Resulting weight percent of each finished line, derived from the master base plus the additions above. Columns total 100.0.
IngredientLip tubeTinted tubeHand salveFace balmBody bar
Beeswax15.014.49.26.030.0
Shea butter, refined20.819.920.226.017.1
Castor oil7.510.07.47.06.2
High oleic sunflower oil56.654.255.160.946.6
Gum rosin (colophonium)008.000
Iron oxides01.4000
Mixed tocopherols0.10.10.10.10.1
Total100.0100.0100.0100.0100.0

Two of these need a word of explanation. The tinted line carries 10% castor rather than 7.5% because the pigment is pre-dispersed in castor before it goes in; grinding iron oxides into a little castor with a spatula or a small mill is the difference between an even colour and a speckled one. The face balm ends up richer in shea than the base because dilution to 6% wax would otherwise thin it out, so the cut adds butter as well as oil.

Careful

Gum rosin, INCI name Colophonium, is a well established contact allergen and appears in the standard European baseline patch test series. It must be declared on the ingredient list, it should never reach a lip product, and a rosin salve needs its own dedicated jug, spatula and thermometer that never touch the lip lines. It is also the line most likely to attract a wound or drawing claim you cannot legally make, so read cosmetic versus drug claims and drawing salves and black salve before you write a single word of stall signage.

Containers, fill weights and yields

Fill weight is volume multiplied by the working density of a set balm, which Trebalm takes as 0.92 g/mL. Yields below already carry a 10% overage, so they are net product divided by 0.90, not batch weight multiplied by 0.90. Getting that the wrong way round is a common way to come up a row of tubes short, and it is set out properly in batch scaling.

Container mix for the range, with fill weights and units per kilogram of finished blend at 10% overage.
Line and containerFill (g)Units per 1 kg blendPour (C)
Lip tube, oval twist-up4.520066-72
Tinted lip tube, oval twist-up4.520066-70
Hand salve, 30 mL tin27.53376-80
Face balm, 60 mL jar551662-66
Body bar, 55 g mould551670-74

Three of those pour windows sit inside the general figures at pour temperatures and two do not, for stated reasons. The rosin salve pours hot at 76 to 80 C because rosin raises the viscosity of the melt sharply and a cool pour goes stringy and lumpy in the tin. The body bar pours at 70 to 74 C rather than the usual open-mould window, because a 30% wax blend begins setting almost immediately and a cool pour leaves flow lines across the face of the bar. The tinted tube pours at the cool end and gets stirred between rows, because the longer it stays fluid the further the pigment sinks.

One melt session, five products

The order is not arbitrary. Work from the hottest line to the coolest, take the contaminating additions last, and give rosin a jug it never leaves. Times below are for the 200 unit plan in the next section and assume one person working alone.

  1. 0:00 Weigh and melt the base. 3.6 kg into a stainless pot, up to 75 to 80 C, held 20 to 25 minutes until completely clear. Tocopherol goes in at the end, below 60 C, or into each sub-lot if you prefer.
  2. 0:45 Salve first, in its own jug. Draw 843 g of base, add 73 g of gum rosin, hold at 85 to 90 C stirring for 10 to 15 minutes until the melt is clear, then pour 30 tins at 76 to 80 C.
  3. 1:05 Bars. Draw 1188 g, add 340 g of beeswax, return to 78 C to clear, pour 25 moulds at 70 to 74 C.
  4. 1:30 Lip tubes. Draw 559 g, add 32 g of beeswax, hold at 74 C. Pour 80 tubes at 66 to 72 C and keep the remaining 190 g of blend in the jug.
  5. 1:55 Tinted tubes. Stir 2.9 g of iron oxides, pre-ground into 5.7 g of castor, through the retained 190 g. Pour 40 tubes at 66 to 70 C, stirring the jug between every row.
  6. 2:10 Face pots last. The remaining 917 g of base plus 611 g of cut, warmed to 70 C to homogenise, cooled to 62 to 66 C, poured into 25 jars.
  7. 2:35 Top up. Tubes, tins and jars all dish in the centre 10 to 15 minutes after pouring. Go back over each rack with a warm jug and give it a second thin layer.
  8. 2:50 Cure overnight before capping tins, labelling anything, or judging hardness. Wax crystallisation continues for 24 to 48 hours.
Try this

Label the jugs before you start, with a strip of masking tape carrying the line name, the weight of base to draw and the addition. Splitting a hot 3.6 kg pot into five sub-lots by weight, under time pressure, with a thermometer in one hand, is where the mistakes happen. The batch calculator will produce the draw weights for a different unit mix, and the whole session belongs on a batch record with a code, which is what batch records are for.

The 200 unit weekend plan

Two hundred units is roughly what a busy single-table stall sells across a weekend at a decent market, and it fits in one evening of making plus one evening of finishing. The mix below leans on lip tubes because they are the cheapest impulse purchase and the fastest to make.

A 200 unit run. Blend weights include 10% overage; base weights are back-calculated from the additions in the modification table.
LineUnitsNet (g)Blend (g)Base (g)Addition
Lip tube8036040037822 g beeswax
Tinted lip tube4018020018110 g beeswax, 2.9 g iron oxides, 5.7 g castor
Hand salve, 30 mL tin3082591784373 g gum rosin
Face balm, 60 mL jar2513751528917611 g cut
Body bar25137515281188340 g beeswax
Total200411545733507Make 3.6 kg of base

Total hands-on time runs to about three hours for the melt session and another two for capping, labelling, batch coding and packing, so five hours for 200 units. That is a real number to divide into your takings before you decide the day was profitable, and it is the input that costing and pricing needs. Do the same arithmetic on materials before the market rather than guessing at it on the drive home.

Packing list

  • Containers at 110% of the unit count, because tubes crack and tin lids arrive dented.
  • Labels printed 10% over, plus blank stock for batch codes and best-before dates.
  • An ingredient list on every unit. Not on the display card, on the unit.
  • Testers, one per line, with the same full labelling as a sale unit.
  • A cool box, from about April to September. A tray of 15% wax tubes in direct sun goes soft at 30 C and a bar will bow.
  • The batch record for the run, and your insurance certificate, which markets increasingly ask to see.

What sells where, pitch costs and the transition from a stall to an online listing are covered at selling at markets and online. Heat is the recurring problem with a balm stall, and the mechanisms and mitigations are at balm melting in the heat.

What a five line range costs you in paperwork

This is the part the one-base trick does not solve. In Great Britain and the EU, the obligations under the cosmetics regulation attach to each cosmetic product placed on the market, and a product is defined by its formulation, not by the base it came from. Five formulations means five product information files, five safety assessments and five notifications, whether you notify through the EU portal or the UK submission service. Which portal, and what each one wants, is at cosmetic notification portals.

There is one real saving. Because the five formulas share a base, most of the toxicological work behind the assessments is common, so assessors will usually quote less for a related set than for five unrelated products. Ask for a range price before you commission the first one. Separately, the notification portals allow a colour cosmetic sold in several shades to be notified once with the full colourant list, which is why adding four more tint shades to the tinted line is cheap while adding a sixth distinct formula is not. Confirm both points with your own assessor rather than assuming them, and see safety assessment and the CPSR.

In the United States the arrangement is different again: the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act requires facility registration and a listing for each cosmetic product, plus records adequate to substantiate safety, and the ingredient declaration follows the existing labelling rules. Requirements by market are set out at selling balms in the UK and EU and labelling cosmetics in the US. Trebalm cannot tell you whether your particular range meets any of these obligations; that is what an assessor is for.

How a range fails

The five ways a small balm range goes wrong, in rough order of how often it happens.
FailureWhat it looks likePrevention
One line unassessed or unnotifiedFour lines documented, the fifth added later and forgottenA pinned line list with assessment reference and notification date beside each product. Nothing goes on the table without a row.
Slow line ages past its date25 face pots made per weekend, four sold, the rest a year oldHalf batches for slow lines, and date from the remaining life of the shortest-lived oil. See shelf life testing
Too many linesFive products times four scents times three sizes, and a stall nobody can readTakings scale with footfall, not with SKU count. Add a line only when the last one sells out.
Pigment graduated down the tubePale at the top, dense at the bottom of the tinted stickPre-disperse in castor, pour at 66 to 70 C, stir between rows. See pigment sinking to the bottom
Rosin in a lip lineA declared allergen where it does not belong, from a shared jugDedicated, colour-coded equipment for the salve, washed separately

The second row is the expensive one. A range makes you feel productive, and the natural instinct is to make an even number of everything. Sales are never even. Track which lines sold at each market for three markets before you settle the mix, and let the slow lines run at half batch or come out of the range entirely.

How many lines you should actually run

The decision rule is not how many products you can make, it is how many you can document and sell through before their date. Start at three: lip tube, hand salve, body bar. Those cover the three reasons people buy balm at a stall, they use the same base, and they need three assessments rather than five. Add the tinted tube when the plain tube sells out at two consecutive markets, because a tint is a shade variant of something already proven rather than a new idea. Add the face pot last, since it is the highest priced, slowest moving and shortest lived of the five.

The honest limit of this page is that the modification arithmetic is exact and the commercial advice is not. The gram figures will produce the percentages shown, on any scale, in any kitchen. The mix of 200 units, the five hours of labour and the claim that three lines is the right starting point are judgements drawn from how small balm producers typically trade, not measurements, and your market will differ. What does not vary is the regulatory count: if the ingredient list on two products is not identical, you have two products, and both of them need everything.

Frequently asked questions

Can I sell five different balms made from one base without five safety assessments?

No. In Great Britain and the EU the obligations attach to each cosmetic product, and a product is defined by its formulation rather than by the base it was derived from. Five distinct ingredient lists means five product information files, five safety assessments and five notifications. Assessors often quote less for a related set, so ask for a range price.

How much balm do I need for a 200 unit market weekend?

About 4.6 kg of finished blend for a mix of 80 lip tubes at 4.5 g, 40 tinted tubes, 30 hand salve tins at 27.5 g, 25 face jars at 55 g and 25 body bars at 55 g. That is 4,115 g of net product plus 10% overage, and it comes from roughly 3.5 kg of master base plus the additions.

What pour temperature should I use for each product in a range?

They differ by line. Lip tubes at 66 to 72 C, tinted tubes at 66 to 70 C with stirring between rows, a rosin hand salve at 76 to 80 C because rosin thickens the melt, a 30% wax body bar at 70 to 74 C because it sets fast, and a soft 6% wax face pot at 62 to 66 C. Top every one of them up after the shrinkage dip forms.

How do I make a balm firmer without reformulating from scratch?

Add wax to a weighed quantity of the finished base. To take a component from 10% to 15%, add 59 g of beeswax per 1000 g of base; to reach 30% for a bar, add 286 g. The arithmetic is x divided by 1000 plus x, solved for the target fraction. You cannot go the other way, so always set your base low and build up.

How many products should a market stall balm range have?

Three to five. Three lines covering lips, hands and body will carry a stall, need three safety assessments rather than five, and sell through before their dates. Add a fourth only when an existing line sells out at two consecutive markets. Takings scale with footfall, not with the number of products on the table.

Is rosin safe to put in a hand salve?

Gum rosin, INCI Colophonium, is used in cosmetics but is a recognised contact allergen and sits in the standard European baseline patch test series. It must be declared on the ingredient list, kept out of lip products, and given dedicated equipment so it cannot cross-contaminate other lines. Your safety assessor decides the level that is acceptable in your product.

Sources and further reading

  1. European Parliament and Council, Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, EUR-Lex, for the safety assessment, product information file and notification obligations.
  2. European Commission, CosIng: cosmetic ingredient database, for the INCI entries Colophonium, Cera alba and CI 77491, 77492 and 77499.
  3. US Food and Drug Administration, 21 CFR Part 73, Listing of color additives exempt from certification, eCFR, for iron oxides in cosmetics.
  4. US Food and Drug Administration, Cosmetics, including the Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022, FDA, accessed 2026.
  5. Cosmetic Ingredient Review, Safety assessment of rosin and rosin derivatives as used in cosmetics, Washington DC.
  6. European Society of Contact Dermatitis, European baseline series, which includes colophonium as a standard patch test allergen.

Reviewed and updated 6 September 2026. Spotted an error? Tell us and we will fix and log it.